- うるとらはまいデザイン事務所代表・兼デザイナー:浜井 弘治氏
- 文化服装学院、テキスタイルメーカーあるみやしん株式会社、株式会社三宅一生デザイン事務所を経て独立。装苑賞受賞、インターナショナル・テキスタルデザインコンテスト「ファッション振興財団賞」受賞。プロフェッサーズラウンドでは、現役医師との共同開発によって生まれたワークカジュアル感覚の白衣ブランド「 Tiger Bamboo DD(タイガーバンブーディーディ)」でデニム素材の白衣を販売中。その他現在、和紙をつかった服など多方面で活躍。
浜井氏インタビュー、前編はこちら。
浜井氏インタビュー、後編になります。
白衣をつくるきっかけから今後の取り組みになどお聞きしています。
今の白衣はまるで洗濯の都合で作っている様にしか見えない!がきっかけ
白衣をつくろうと思ったきっかけをお聞かせください
高校時代の同級生である医師からある時一通のメールをいただきました。彼のメールには、現在の白衣の問題点が多く書いてあり、その中の「今の白衣はまるで洗濯の都合で作っている様にしか見えない!」という彼の視点に共感しました。
白衣に採用したデニム(※)についてお聞かせください
白色で天然素材という事で、保存状態、縫製等、最大限に気を使っておりますが、思わぬ事で問題がおきます。紫外線で黄変した事もあったり縫製途中でシミがついたり等。。。毎回、難しいです。
その反面、着て、洗って、洗いざらしを楽しみながら、体に馴染む感覚が好きで、デニム生地を採用しています。
※デニム白衣のTigerBambooDD:
デニム白衣はすべて、自身の出身地である山口県のデニム工房で製作されています。
着る人の表情を刻み込むように、使い込むのほどに自然な風合いを増すデニム。 「情熱」と「強さ」と「優しさ」が大切な今の時代、そのような医師に着てほしい白衣
新たな取り組み。洋服に”和紙”素材を
機能的な服の素材として”和紙”素材を長い間研究し取り組んでますね
きっかけは、ポリエステル素材の様な万能な素材に近い天然の素材は無いのか?と探しておりましたところ、和紙は、軽くて薄くて機能的である長所をもつ素材である事がわかりました。
短所は、タテに伸びない事、だから切れてしまう。そこを改良すれば可能性が広がる素材だと思います。
和紙素材への取り組みの目的は、日本人の知恵や技術を過去に終わらせる事ではなく、未来に繋げようと試みております。
和紙は、知恵と機能の素材です。それでは、なぜ、日本家屋に和紙が多く使われているかと言いますと、高温多湿な日本の気候を考えた素材だからです。
夏は高温多湿、冬は乾燥する、この日本の風土に適した素材だからです。和紙は湿気ある夏に水分を吸収し、乾燥期の冬に水分を吐き出します。和紙が呼吸する事で快適な空間を作っております。
この発想を衣服内気候に置き換えた素材です。これらに魅力を感じます。
機能的な”和紙”素材を白衣に採用してリリースされますね!!
はい。
伝統的な日本人の知恵を未来に繋げた様なデザイン
豊富な服飾の知識は、商品に具体的に反映されていますか
デニム素材に関して、素材そのもの、縫製等、多くの方向から取り組んできた経験を活かしたモノ作りをしていると思います。
例えば、デニム工場ならでは縫製(太い縫製糸を使えるとか、オウトツ感による風合い、生地の厚みによる引き攣れ等の味わいをデザインの一種と捉えて、これらの活かし方も考えております。
伝統的な日本人の知恵を未来に繋げた様なデザインにこだわっております。
今後についてお聞かせ下さい
地元の素材がファッション素材にならないか?取り組んでおります。
特に山口県の竹に注目して、服飾資材に取り組んでおります。
なぜ、山口県の竹か?といいうと、山口県萩市の竹は、ひと冬越した竹で、撓りが強く丈夫だそうです。そして、これらを炭化する事で、形状よっては、プラスチックの2倍以上の強度になります。
これは竹釘の技術と同じです。竹釘というのは、宮大工が使うのですが、炭化しており強靭で丈夫です。これも伝統的な日本人の知恵が根底にある技術です。
最後にお聞かせください。やりがいを感じる瞬間は
やはりお客様に商品を気に入っていただいた時です。
そんな姿勢をみせていただけるインタビューとなりました。
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